Chimborazo, Cotapaxi, Corazon, and Illiniza Norte

20,564'....... 19,347'....... 15,718'....... 16,818'

January 2021 -


ITINERARY - Option #1 - 8 Days Acclimitization Package

Andes Climbing Guides (link at left is a printable pdf)

Chimborazo is the highest volcano and mountain in Ecuador and further from the center point on Earth, is the closest to outer space point, why it is called as "the closest point to the Sun" due to the Earth's diameter in the equatorial latitude is greater than in the latitude of Everest (about 28 ° north) His last known eruption is believed to have produced about 550 dC. is located in the central Andes, 150 km southwest of Quito and 49 km northwest of Riobamba.

Measured from the center of the earth, Chimborazo is the highest mountain in the world beating a mile in height Everest.

Reaching the summit requires knowledge, mountaineering experience and acclimatization, however, we include in our programas glacier training in Cotopaxi-, the effort are definitely worth it because you will have a good view, the ascent takes between 6-8 hours while the descent requires around 2-3 hours.Climbing at this altitude can be very difficult, so please be sure that you are well prepared. The more mountains you climb prior to Chimborazo the better prepared you will be. Following an acclimatization program offers a much higher chance of making a successful climb of Chimborazo, Here I send some options, please choose the one that best suits your needs.

Day 1: Machachi - CorazonSummit(15,702ft/4786m) We’ll leave from Quito (9,186ft/2.800m) or Machachi (9,842ft/.3000m)early in the morning (7h00) and will drive south through the Avenue of the Volcanoes until getting to the village of “El Chaupi”. We’ll continue driving up until getting the trail head (13,120ft/4.000m), where we will start our hike, the first section we will be hiking up through the small Andean grass. Then we will get on the sandy and scramble section, whichit will lead us to Corazon summit (15,702ft/4786m), we’ll have lunch during the hike. It’ll take us about 8 hours round trip.Overnight at Machachitown.

Day 2: Machachi - Iliniza Norte Summit (16,818ft/ 5.126 m) We leave from Machachi early in the morning (07h00) and will drive through the Avenue of the Volcanoes until getting to the village of “El Chaupi”. We’ll continue driving up until getting to “La Virgen parking lot” (12,795ft/3.900m) 1 hour, once there packour climbing equipment and we’ll start a 5-7 hour hike up to the “Summit”. We’ll continue hiking up towards the Illiniza Norte summit (16,818ft/ 5.126 m). Once at the summit we’ll enjoy and admire the beautiful surroundings. The return back to the “La Virgen parking lot” (12,795ft/3.900m), will be done in around 2 hours, we have a box lunch for the way, and drive back to Machachi.

Day 3: Relax day in Machachi (Full day rest to recover energy)

Day 4: Machachi -Cotopaxi Refuge (15,748ft/4.800m) We’ll leave from Machachi (9,842ft/3.000m) in the morning (11h00) where we will change directions towards the east until we reach the village of Pedregal, from here will drive to the Cotopaxi parking lot (14,763ft/4.500m) where our driver will leave us getting to this point normally takes about 2 hours, then we’ll hike up for another hour to carry our entire luggage until getting the "José Rivas" Refuge (15,748ft/4.800m) above sea level. Here we will rest for a while. If the weather allows us in the afternoon we’ll head to the glaciers to practice for the following day and back to the refuge before 18h00. Dinner will be served and we will rest until midnight.

Day 5: Cotopaxi Refuge - Cotopaxi Summit (19,347ft/5.897m) - Machachi Midnight will be our wake up time and the departure to the top (19,347ft/5.897 m) will be around 01h00, not before having a light breakfast and get our stuff ready for the ascent which will take us about 6 to 8 hours. Each climber will get a box lunch for the climb. Once at the summit we’ll take our time to take pictures of the crater and surroundings, and then we’ll head down back the refuge (3 to 4 hours). Once at the refuge will pack our belongings and go back to the parking lot where our transportation will be ready to take us back to Machachi.

Day 6: Relax day in Machachi (Full day rest to recover energy)

Day 7: Machachi - Chimborazo Refuge (15,744 ft/4,800 m) - From Machachi (10h00), we’ll drive southwest to the Ambato town (2hours drive) where we will have the lunch, after we will drive to the Chimborazo’s Reserve entrance for about 1 hour more, until getting to the Hermanos Carrel refuge (15,744 ft/4,800 m) In the afternoon we’ll have dinner around 17:00pm and then get some rest until 22:00, our wake up time. There will be an early light breakfast served just before getting ready with our gear and start heading up.

Day 8: Refuge - Chimborazo Summit - Quito - At midnight we’ll start our climb to the top of Ecuador’s highest mountain, Chimborazo, which will take us about 8 to 10 hours. Each climber will get a box lunch for the ascending. We’ll get to the summit in the early hours (20,702ft/6.310m) the perfect spot for resting and picture taking of the beautiful Andean surroundings. Then, we’ll start our descending to the Refuge; it will take us from 3 to 4 hours. Once in “Whymper Refuge” we’ll pack our things and go down to “Hermanos Carrel Refuge”, and drive back to Machachi/Quito.

Price per person: Group of 2 people: $795 each one / includes:• A registered and fully licensed Tour Operator • Food in the mountains • Private transport • Professional High Mountain Guide (ratio of 2 mountain climbers with one guide in Glacier) • National Parks entrance fees • Accommodation at the“Jose Rivas”and “Hermanos Carrel”Refuges • Technical mountain equipment: plastic mountain boots, crampons, harness, rope, snow stake, carabinerno more / The price does not include: • Any type of Insurance • Personal Mountain Equipment: Waterproof clothing, warm clothing, backpack, warm hat, sleeping bag, headlamp, snow gloves, helmet, pair of gaiters, trekking boots, water bottle, sun cream.• Hotels in Machachi town• Food in Hotels • Tips • Other expenses not specified

“Andes Climbing Ecuador S.A” Direct Tour Operator PHONES: Mobile (593 9) 94886 895, Office (593 2) 2328094Diego Cumbajín Parra Owner/Lead / Address:10 de Agosto and Venezuela Machachi – Ecuador

Rifugio Carrel




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Required Personal Equipment and Clothing


Glacier glasses (100% UV filter and side protection)
Ski goggles
Sun cap or hat (with bandana and visor)
Ski hat (wool or fleece)
Light balaclava (Polypropylene or Capilene)

Upper Body

1 Fleece pullover (like soft polaretec 100 or 200)
1 Fleece jacket (mid to heavy weight)
1 Parka with hood - for -30°C / -22°F - (down or synthetic), expedition type (needs to fit over all insulation layers).
1 Rainproof or windproof breathable jacket with hood (we suggest Gore-Tex)
2 Thermal baselayer shirts (Polypropylene or Capilene)
Cotton T-shirts or shirts
1 Turtleneck or multifunctional headwear of synthetic material (Buff or similar)


2 Pairs of inner thermal gloves (Polypropylene or Capilene)
1 Pair of insulated finger gloves
1 Pair of insulated mittens (fleece, down or polar guard)
1 Pair of over mittens (Gore-Tex, in case your mittens are not made of waterproof material)


Light weight long underwear (tops and bottoms)
Expedition weight long underwear, Polypropylene or Capilene (tops and bottoms). No cotton blend
Fleece trousers (light weight). Full length side zippers recommended (bibs are not recommended due to its extra weight).
Wind pants (breathable and waterproof). Full separating side zips required (we suggest Gore-Tex).
Trekking trousers
Shorts (optional)


1 Pair of comfortable hiking boots or trekking shoes
4 Pairs of outer socks (thick wool or polypropylene)
3 Pairs of inner socks (thin silk or polypropylene)
2 Pairs of cotton socks (for approach to base camp
1 pair of sandals for river crossings (or Neoprene booties with sole)

Mountaineering Equipment

1 Pair of plastic boots (double plastic boots), -40ªC / -40ºF. We recommend Asolo AFS 8000, Koflach Artic Expedition or Scarpa Vega.
Gaiters (Gore-Tex + Cordura). We recommend Outdoor Research Crocodiles
Crampons with ‘step-in’ bindings (recommended Charlet Moser Super 12). Not Grivel Rambo, Footfangs or Simond Scorpions.
1 pair of trekking poles (collapsible preferred)
1 ice axe. We recommend Grivel

Backpacks - Duffel Bags

Expedition backpack: internal frame pack (80 liters / 5000 cubic inches) with crampons attachment points and ice axe haul loops (we recommend The North Face and Low Alpine)
Day pack (for approach to base camp)
1 extra large and strong duffel bag with lock (large enough to fit in all your equipment) to be carried by the mules.
1 smaller duffel bag with lock (to store excess gear in the hotel)
Plastic bags to keep clothing dry
Toiletry bag

Sleeping Gear

Sleeping bag, expedition quality (for at least -20ºC – -4ºF,). 1 kg. of down preferred (only 650/700 cu. in. fill, very high quality)
Sleeping mat (Thermarest or similar, full length recommended)
Foam pad (only if you bring a Thermarest, to avoid a burst)

Others Recommened

Head lamp (spare batteries and bulb)
Dish, glass, spoon, knife and folk (unbreakable set to be used at the upper camps)
1 one-liter stainless steel thermos
2 one-liter water bottle (wide mouth). Water bottle insulated needed. We recommend Nalgene
1 pocketknife
6 Hand warmers (for summit day)
1 one-liter pee bottle (wide mouth)
1 pee funnel (women). We recommend Freshette
Personal first aid kit (simple)
Sun screen (30-40 solar protection factor)
2 Lips screen (20-40 solar protection factor).


Camera (extra batteries and memory cards)
Book, games, music devices to spend time in tent
Insect repellent coating for hike in clothes
Copies of relevant documents (Passport, maps, directions, etc)
Journal with pens.
Casual clothes for walking around, going to dinner
Small Spanish dictionary with travel phrases
List of critical information