Climbing Gannett Peak, Wyoming's Highest Peak

Summit Elevation: 13,804' ......... Standard Pole Creek Trail Route from West

3rd and 4th Class scrambling with exposure

July 20, 2020

TRIP REPORT: I left camp at upper Titcomb Basin at 5:15. The snow was just soft enough for kicking steps, so I only used crampons near the top of Dinwoody Pass. At the pass, I took off the crampons and plunge-stepped down and across Dinwoody Glacier. The easiest route went around the right of a huge buttress at 11,700 and then west through a few crevasses near the north edge of the Dinwoody Glacier. The crevasses required a bit of careful routefinding, but they weren't a major obstacle. I then climbed an obvious snow-filled couloir, kicked steps in the snow without using crampons. Ascend the rocks rather than the steeper bottom part of the Gooseneck Glacier. The top of the glacier is considered the crux. At the top of the couloir I wandered up easier snow and rock toward the summit. I reached the summit about 9:15. After a short break and a few pictures, I started down. The weather was good, but I didn't want to be on top of Dinwoody Pass in a lightning storm. The snow was firm enough to support my weight and soft enough for kicking steps. I made good time and was back at camp before noon, just as it started to rain. The main requirements for climbing Gannett Peak are good basic mountaineering and backpacking skills, good physical condition, tolerance of thin air, and decent weather. While Gannett is certainly a lot of work, it was much easier than I had expected. I only used crampons for a short distance on Dinwoody Pass, and I never bothered using the ice axe. I call this a walk-up. Just be careful not to fall in a crevasse.

BELOW:  Gannett Peak along Gooseneck Route from Bonney Pass


BELOW:  View of Titcomb Basin with both lakes from half way up Bonney Pass
Dinwoody Glacier is 1200' below Bonney Pass.



BELOW: View across the Gooseneck Glacier to Bonney Pass and beyond to Fremont Peak from summit.

ABOVE: Upper Gooseneck Glacier crossing

BELOW: four climbers from summit of Gannett


LEFT:  Bonney Pass right of center from Titcomb

BELOW: Route down across steep snow on left 
to Pinnacle Ridge in center.



BELOW:  View SE from summit ridge

PROXIMAL SUMMITS

1. Mount Woodrow Wilson (13501 ft)
2. Bastion Peak (13495 ft)
3. Doublet Peak (13600 ft)
4. Mount Warren (13721 ft)
5. Turret Peak (Wyoming) (13600 ft)
6. Mount Helen (Wyoming) (13619 ft)
7. Mount Febbas (13469 ft)
8. Mount Sacagawea (13570 ft)
9. Fremont Peak (13747 ft)
10. Jackson Peak (13518 ft)

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