Climbing Mt. Shasta, California
Elevation: 14,179'      Elevation Gain:  7300'
2nd highest peak in Cascades - 5th highest peak in California

April 24, 2024 - Mount Shasta is the second highest peak in the Cascade Range, surpassed only by Mount Rainier which is just 249 feet taller. Nonetheless, with a base diameter of more than 17 miles, Mount Shasta has the greater volume. The mountain is one of the southernmost volcanoes in the Cascades, with only Lassen Peak further south. Shastina, Mount Shasta's largest subordinate peak, is the third highest summit in the range. Shasta is also one of the youngest of the Cascade's major volcanoes. This is visible in the mountain's pointed, conical cap. Other major peaks like Mounts Rainier, Adams and Hood are older and have broader, more rounded summits. The last eruption occured in 1786; the sulphur springs near the top of Mount Shasta give warning that the mountain will reawaken in the future.

Nearly 7,000 feet of Mount Shasta’s height is above the timberline. Consequently, this is among the most barren wilderness areas in northern California. The lushest forest within the boundary is found on the northeast and southeast slopes of the mountain. Glaciers, tundra and massive screefields dominate the rest of the area, although small meadows punctuate the lower flanks of Mount Shasta. The wilderness area also contains several lava flows, most of which are found on the north side of the mountain. The newest flows are in the northwest, nearest the Bolam trailhead. Older flows can be observed in the North Gate area.

Over 15,000 summit attempts are made every year, only a third of which are successful. Avalanche Gulch is the least difficult and most popular route, and many people with no mountaineering experience are able to climb it (many more such people are not). An ice axe and crampons are necessary for all routes. One-day ascents are possible, but beginners will want to take two days so they can have more time to acclimatize. 

          0.0       6880'  Bunny Flats - start Zero Dark Early
             1.7M     7880'  Horse Camp Lodge - last place for running water
             2.75M    9200'  50/50 Flat - snow begins above treeline - go to crampons
             3.5 M  10,400'  Lake Helen campground
             4.2M   12,800'  Red Banks after 2200' ice wall in less than one mile
             4.5M   13,200'  Misery Hill after crossing glacier, less steep
             5.0M   13,900'  Base of Summit - windy
             5.2M   14,179'  Summit
                      glissade back

Useful phone numbers:
The Fifth Season's (climbing & skiing report) 24 hour recorded message: (530) 926-5555
Mt. Shasta Ranger Station (Forest Service): (530) 926-4511
Mt. Shasta Ranger Station (Avalanche Report): (530) 926-9613
McCloud Ranger Station (Forest Service) for East side route and access road conditions: (530) 964-2184

The Sierra Club Lodge approach via Bunny Flat is the most popular approach. Avalanche Gulch, Old Ski Bowl, Sargents Ridge, Green Butte Ridge, Casaval Ridge and Cascade Gulch are accessible from Bunny Flat. From Interstate 5 in Mount Shasta City take the central Mount Shasta exit onto West Lake Street and continue about a mile until it bears left and becomes N Washington Drive. The road soon turns into Everitt Memorial Highway and leads directly to Bunny Flat at elevation 6950 feet, 12 miles from the interstate. From the trailhead take a two mile trail to Horse Camp (7900 ft) for all Bunny Flat routes except Green Butte and Sargent’s Ridge.

Climbing Permits:
Shastina is located in Shasta National Forest, and all visits to both Shasta and Shastina require climbing permits (necessary for all trips over 10,000 feet in the Mount Shasta Wilderness). Three day summit passes are $20 and available self issue at open trailheads and outside the Mount Shasta Ranger Station 24 hours a day. Annual Passes are good for a calendar year, cost $30, and are available during business hours at the Mount Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations, The Fifth Season in Mount Shasta City, and REI locations in Sacramento.

Wilderness Permits:
In addition to a climbing pass, wilderness permits are required for any overnight stays in the wilderness and are most easily obtained 24/7, self issue at open trailheads or the Mount Shasta Ranger Station.

Human Waste Pack-out Bags:
Pack-out bags for human waste are REQUIRED and can be obtained free at open trailheads and the Mount Shasta Ranger Station. Please don't take shortcuts here, as the routes can experience heavy traffic throughout the course of the year and easily ruined for following parties. Pack out all solid waste. If you are concerned about the integrity of the packaging take an extra gallon-sized ziplock bag.

Trailhead camping is common and allowed at the Bunny Flat trailhead. Dispersed camping is allowed throughout the greater Mount Shasta area, including at and en route to other trailheads. Camping is also allowed at the Sierra Club maintained Horse Camp. They charge $5.00 per tent and $3.00 per bivy. This is a good basecamp for trips up many of the south side routes.

The Forest Service maintains two campgrounds on Mount Shasta, both of which are located off of Everitt Memorial Highway. McBride Springs Campground is only a couple miles outside of the town of Mount Shasta and has a lot of shade. Panther Meadows Campground is located near 8,000 feet, just a bit below the Old Ski Bowl.