June 7, 2024 - I had been looking forward to doing this ascent for nearly a decade, so didn't want to pass up an opportunity to give it a try, even though I had a tough 50-mile race to run the next morning. I only went up half way before deciding to save the upper half for another day in favor of saving energy for the next day's event. So I am leaving my prep notes below this write-up for future reference.

I did snap a few pictures following my 0500 start as a memory of the hike up the rocky couloir to the slabs. Once I reached the snow pack I slipped on my traction and moved up a bit before concluding that the descent by myself on the steep snow after it had warmed a bit later in the morning would probably have been exhausting, which would have been counter-productive to my plan to race the next day. So, I abandoned after measuring up the climb to return another day.

In retrospect, it probably would be better to climb this with a partner, a rope, and a small rack so as to rap back down across the snow. Climbing alone is probably not a good idea any longer for a guy my age with diminishing skills. Oh well! It also might be more prudent to wait until later in the year when the snow would be minimized.

Approach

The parking for this face is in a subdivison above Wasatch Blvd. To get there, turn from Wasatch onto Oakview, then a right on Jupiter, a left on Adonis, and a right on Thousand Oaks Drive. Keep following the dead end signs up to Thousand Oaks Circle. Park here. - From Wasatch Blvd., turn east onto Oakview Dr. (4275 South). This road is immediately north of a pedestrian overpass that crosses Wasatch Blvd. Follow Oakview Dr. uphill and make a right turn on Jupiter Dr. (3735 East). Follow Jupiter Drive south and and turn left on Adonis Drive (4505 South).Drive a short distance to Thousand Oaks Drive (4500 South) and turn right. Continue up Thousand Oaks Drive, continuing past a sharp left turn, to a cul-de-sac above two water tanks, and park. From the parking, start up the dirt trail towards the approach gully following some switchbacks. At the bottom edge of the gully, the trail will eventually dissappear and become a 2nd class approach through the lower part of the gully which will have some third class sections.

Route Description

Stay on the trail through both switchbacks (don't go straight at the 2nd one); the trail dies down in a rocky gully which you follow to the base of the slabs.

The face of the West Slabs can be climbed almost anywhere. The slab is extremely wide, allowing tons of variations to try. Although it doesn't matter which way you choose, I will describe my route as a rough idea of what to expect. Also included are rough estimates of the pitch lengths. All told, the slabs are probably close to 2000' feet of climbing. In early season, an ice axe (maybe crampons) may be helpful on the approach couloir. The snow isn't that steep and I was easily able to kick steps without crampons.

P1) Start at the low point of the slabs, where the couloir makes a V, heading both to the left and the right of the slabs. This pitch is mostly 3rd/4th class scrambling, with a few easy 5th class moves up to a tree with slings (190 feet).

P2) This and P3 are the two pitches that make up the 5.5 climbing on this route. I wandered up a beautiful slabby face placing gear in face features up to the start of a left facing dihedral. The belay was set using gear anchor on a nice flat spot in the dihedral (180 feet).

P3) Climb up the nice left facing dihedral until a huge tree on a big ledge. This is the most easily protected and one of the best pitches of the route. A walk off right is possible here on ledge systems. From here, the climbing eases to 5.4 or less (120 feet).

P4) A really cool pitch wanders up the juggy face. I set a gear anchor in a horizontal crack above a sloping shelf which took small cams well (160 feet).

P5) Head up unprotectable slabbier rock, trending slightly right, to a small roof system with a tree. Some slings are on this tree, and I backed it up with a cam in a nearby crack (150 feet).

P6) Wander up and over a small roof. Continue rambling up the face, passing a dead tree on the left. A rope stretcher with a bit of simul-climbing got me to a good sized pine tree just a few feet below an enormous dead tree (215 feet).

P7) Slightly to the left is a wavy right facing dihedral in light colored quartzite. I stretched this pitch to a sloping ledge with a few features for a gear anchor (200 feet).

P8) Another ramble up a right facing dihedral gains a big tree with a good ledge (110 feet).

P9) Wander up the well featured face for most of a rope length to another tree (slightly left) with slings (180 feet).

P10) One more really easy pitch gains a huge ledge system which goes straight across the face (150 feet).

Probably two more rope lengths would reach the top from here if still roped up. However, unroping for this easy climbing may be a good idea at this point, or even after the top of pitch 8 or 9 as described. For the most part, every pitch seems easier than the last, and the point to unrope is different depending on the party.

Protection
Small standard Rack. I found small cams to be more useful than anything else. I placed occasional nuts and up to a #3 camalot as well. Many trees can be used as quick belays or protection on pitches. Most pitches are run out, but the climbing is usually juggy.

Descent
"The west ridge of the North Face is the best descent route. A few moves of exposed scrambling are involved near the top of the ridge. After reaching the shoulder below the West Ridge, either descend down the gully to the west of the ascent gully, or scramble east following the base of the slabs, to reach the start of the climb from here, continue back down the ascent gully. It is also possible to continue along the ridge from the top of the climb to the north summit, and descend via the Kamp's ridge descent. A considerable amount of scrambling is involved this way, not to mention an additional trek through the neighborhood to get back to your car."

Once you reach the top of the slabs, some people choose to descend (using ropes) on the slab, or you can bushwhack to the actual summit of Olympus. I chose to go to the top of Olympus. It Is about a mile or so of bushwhacking to the summit. Stay on the ridge as much as possible to avoid the undergrowth. Depending on the time of year, there may or may not be snow. Again, there is not really a set way to go Once you reach the top of Olympus, you'll see an incredible view of Twin Peaks and the other peaks of LCC. You can also see pretty far north on clear day. The views really are beautiful on the top of Olympus.

To descend, I just went down on the trail leading to Olympus. (My friend had parked his car at the base of the Mt. Olympus trailhead and then my brother drove us to the West Slabs trailhead). The trail to Mt. Olympus is fairly steep. It's about 3 miles, with 4,000' ft or so elevation gain. It's a pretty busy trail as well, so be sure to be courteous as you descend. 3 miles back to the TH from where you finish.

The address of the trailhead is approximately Wasatch Blvd. and Tolcate Hills Rd. The trailhead is roughly 1/4 mile north of Tolcate Hills Road along Wasatch Blvd at 5800 south on the east side of Wasatch Blvd., and is marked with a brown sign reading "Mount Olympus Trailhead". Park either along Wasatch Blvd. or in a slightly hidden parking lot just north of the trailhead. Local authorities prefer for you to park in the parking lot rather than along Wasatch Blvd. Juveniles often make victims of those who park in the "hidden" lot. I recommend you park along Wasatch Blvd. It adds 20 feet of elevation gain and 30 yards of hiking to your start.