Climbing Mount Sneffels, Ouray, Colorado Elevation: 14,150' Rank: 27th Class 3+ Elevation Gain: 3350' RT Distance: 7.5M July 17, 2015 - This climb was a most pleasant surprise. Arriving early in the evening I drove the adventurous road up Yankee Boy Basin to find a place to park for the night, so as to begin the climb early from the trailhead. Running into a couple looking to do the same thing, from Oklahoma, we both attempted the final mile to the lower parking lot on a road that should have been passable for regular cars, but proved not. Driving most of the way to the lower trailhead we were turned around by impassable terrain for anything less than a 4X4, so we back-tracked and parked in a pull-off about eight-tenths of a mile below the lower trailhead. It would be an additional mile and a half hike the next morning, which was better than doing damage to the cars. After a good night of sleep I set off at about 0530 on my trek up the mountain. The other folks headed out first, but I caught them after awhile once I found my sweet spot and got into my climbing stride. I felt much better on my day two in the Rockies. The first day always seems necessary to work out the travel doldrums. The initial 1.6 miles tilted uphill past the lower parking lot to the upper parking lot to the TH proper. It was typical 4X4 road, switching back and forth, climbing about 2000 feet. It was quite a workout before reaching the TH; from there it was a mere 1.2 miles to the summit of Mount Sneffels, climbing another steep 1700 feet. The trail crossed a talus field to begin before turning steeply toward Kismet col at the bottom of the Lavender Couloir. The trudge up through the scree was laborious, so as much as possible I hiked up the rockier margins for better traction. Before I reached the col I had soldiered past everyone who had started before me. Generally I like to have people in sight above me so that I can gauge the best line to climb. Being the first of the day to summit is meaningless to me, but having someone else show the way and make mistakes is invaluable. On this day I would be the one everyone else was keying on, which is alright too - that's the reason I generally wear a bright red fleece and red helmet - so that others can easily find me and mark my progress. A couple from Edinboro, Pennsylvania, weren't too far behind as I headed up the couloir to quickly find it was filled with ice from late May snows. I had not brought an axe or yak traks - dah - so had only one recourse - to climb the rocks along the margin of the icy swath that spelled nothing but trouble. My PA friends - Don and Beth - were better prepared except they had no helmets to fend off the rocks I loosened to tumble in their direction. I proceeded up the right wall of the couloir, obliged to get creative as the climb went from a class three scramble to class five movements. As I paralleled the ice below I avoided disaster time after time just by keeping a cool head and making sure my hand and foot holds were firm. Just basic mountaineering. While it was dangerous, and I would certainly not encourage anyone else to follow me, I was rather enjoying myself and the predicament I found myself in. As the other two stepped their way up the frozen slope with their traction support and ice axes, I moved even further ahead of them on dry, but often crumbly rock. When I would encounter some crux move, I'd take time to think about my options before commiting to a movement. Finally reaching the head of the icy beast I crossed the couloir to climb "the notch" which separated the couloir from the final hundred-foot push to the summit. I sat down and waited after negotiating the notch, enjoying the spectacular views of the San Juans while the other two caught up. Don had brought along a thirty-foot rope so I volunteered to give top rope support to each of them as they shinnied up the notch. Together, then, we summited Sneffels in bright sunshine and an effervescent mood. This was Don's fourth fourteener and Beth's second; thirty-some for me. After some pictures and a brief lunch I initiated my down climb. It was hard to leave. I actually hung around probably twenty minutes just enjoying perhaps the most spectacular views of the San Juans to be seen from any other summit in the range. A perfect day, but, even though it was only 0915, it was time to come down. The weather always changes in Colorado after the noon hour. We were the first folks to reach the top with no one else in sight. Not too many would follow. Telluride Ski Resort in background Blue Lakes far below I decided I was not going to experience the treachery of the couloir on the downclimb. Instead, I took a direct line straight back to the col on dry talus without snow. Don and Beth followed when they saw I was making good progress. Deciding to cut back to the couloir near the bottom, past the snow, I saw a couple dozen climbers stuck at the bottom of the icy climb, now melting in the sun, in the couloir. Spotting an alternate route, for both me to descend and they to ascend, I encouraged others to take the alternate line to the summit and avoid the icy couloir. As I climbed down and out of sight, several people were gratefully doing as I had suggested. On my way down I saw something shining in the rocks, so diverted to investigate four cans of beer discarded by some other climber who likely got tired of carrying it after drinking the other two beers. Only one of the cans was intact, so I grabbed it and shared it with the guy from Oklahoma who agreed that it tasted mighty good. Was it the altitude or the effort or was it really that tasty??? The brand was called Forever Young, brewed in Loveland, Colorado by the Grimm Brothers Brewing Company - a fine lager with good body and lots of flavor worthy of a second chance. A nice treat to celebrate the day with climbing friends... and appropriately named for someone like me who still thinks he will live forever. The climb down through the scree and talus went quickly, even with stopping to chat with a variety of people coming up. It is always the people I remember most fondly after any outdoor adventure. While scree skiing I rocketed past any others who had turned around and were on their way down. Storm clouds were brewing and I wanted to miss the weather change in my long hike back to the car below. I stopped to take quite a few photographs of flowers along the way. Summer is in full bloom and I wasn't going to miss these photo ops. I felt good at the conclusion. No one, still, outclimbs or outdescends me on 14'ers. Everything was solid. No injuries. No falls. Back by noon. It was a great day with eighty pictures to bring home and remember my adventure. Will take a day off from climbing and run up Imogene Pass, reachable from Yankee Boy Basin, while I am here before heading over to Silverton for Saturday's race up Kendall Mountain. Summer is going just as I had hoped for. |